Almost Heaven - West Virginia
- Craig Tidball
- Feb 14, 2022
- 4 min read
Updated: Apr 8, 2023
"Travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind." – Seneca
John Denver's lyrics: "Almost heaven, West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River" had always called to me. In past travels, I had only touched parts of West Virginia, mainly near Pennsylvania as we headed back from Washington, D.C. to Indiana. We set out on country roads on purpose to see for ourselves, and we were pleasantly rewarded.
Our trip from Northern Indiana was to include a stop at the Neal Armstrong Museum in his hometown of Wappakanetta, Ohio. I've always been a space buff and try to stop at every related new frontier display. Today, however, the museum was closed, so we'll add the attraction to a future trip east. It was a fine day for travel; sunny skies, good temperatures, and open skies. One thing I appreciate about traveling in Ohio is that many parts are Big Sky country. Not quite Montana big, but big horizons, lots of well-kept farmland stretching out, pleasing vistas, and just clean country. By contrast, Tennessee has a lot to offer the traveler, but we both remarked how much litter lines the highways there. The Volunteer State could use some help in litter cleanup.
Our first task was to target which Walmart or Cracker Barrell could accommodate our uncertain schedule. As the closed museum added a couple of hours to our day, we decided to head toward West Virginia's State Capitol at Charleston. I had read from many sources about the uniqueness and beauty of the capitol building, but again, as we better learned our travel timing, we arrived right at closing as the state workers were heading home for the day. It's a beautiful campus, with well-manicured lawns and spotless grounds. We plan to return. The fall colors have passed their peak but still afford an autumn glow to this seat of West Virginia government.
The major highways around Charleston are elevated and surround much of the city, giving it the welcoming appearance of a sunken living room that invites you to visit. We look forward to returning here to see more of the city and visit its monuments and museums.
Our evening rest stop was at Club Walmart in Quincy, just south of the capitol city, where Scenic Route 60 turns east along the Kanawha River. Our evening was peaceful and included a grocery stop at Walmart and our daily card game of "13." (I'm ahead in the running score.)
Early the next day, we headed east along Route 60 and were quickly into the twists and turns and soon the hills of this beautiful part of the country. We passed many small towns where people still cared for their
communities. There is a rich history throughout this region, with many signs pointing out important events of yesteryear. Closer to Montgomery, we came across our first mining operations—one working and one closed—large, capital-intensive plants, pointing back to more robust times. At Glen Ferris, we caught a glimpse of Kanawha Falls across the river from Route 60. We made a quick stop at the Gawley River Bridge, site of a strategic Civil War Union victory that took the bridge in 1861 at the Battle of Carnifex Ferry. We speculated this could have been the childhood home of Jim Nabors (Gomer Pyle of Andy Griffith Show fame), as he was always remarking with his mountain twang-"Gawley!" Maybe not. We later learned Jim was from Alabama.
Our first rest stop was to take in the gorgeous river and canyon views from atop Hawks Nest State Park Lodge. This classically designed park boasted paved walkways and stone walls with breathtaking views far below of the bending Kanawha River (now called the New River at this location). We didn't stay in the lodge but visited the nice gift shop and saw the playground near the parking area. It was plain to see this was a well-cared-for park. We would love to return for an overnight or multi-night visit.
As we watched the river, we noticed an approaching train snaking along the river bed far below us. We thought we were seeing tracks behind a rather short train as it passed, but "tracks" turned out to be the sun gleaming off the edges of the many uniform coal cars being towed. We estimated the train to be 3–4 miles in length—an impressive and graceful sight.
Our primary destination for the day was the New River Gorge Bridge and the related parks under the care of the National Park Service. The bridge is a steel arch 3,030 feet (924 m) long and standing 876 feet over the New River near Fayetteville, West Virginia. With an arch 1,700 feet (518 m) long, it was the world's longest single-span arch bridge for 26 years; it is now the fifth longest. There is artistry in the engineer's handiwork. This massive structure offers a crown to this beautiful part of the gorge. We took the steps down to multiple viewing levels to take in the immense nature of the bridge.
I made the return up the stairs a little too quickly and, with some lightheadedness, had to set a spell on the pathway as tourists passed by--offering to assist but allowing me to just take a breather. It's certainly doable; just don't climb the stairs too fast. Our ever faithful WonderRL, the "Pooka" was waiting for us in the parking lot with a light lunch.
Our afternoon route took us east toward tomorrow's destination, Natural Bridge, Virginia. That route in itself, however, was a special treat for the scenery it afforded us along east-bound Interstate 64. We entered the interstate system at Beckley, off of Hwy 19, south of the bridge. The signs warned us of upcoming tolls (cash only), so, as we seldom carry much if any cash, we found an ATM and picked up $50, not knowing what was ahead. Our first and only toll was at the entrance and totaled $1.50. I could have found that in the seat cushions, but now I was glad to have a little folding money along.
I've traveled a good number of interstate highways, but this struck me as some of the most scenic, well-designed, and gracefully envisioned roads I've ever encountered in the eastern part of the country. I would have loved to have sat in committee meetings or watched over the shoulders of the engineers who put together this beautiful stretch of highway among all the hills and rivers and approaching mountains of this beautiful state. We will gladly return to West Virginia, another highlight for us Along the Pooka Trail.
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