Country Roads and Canyon Views: Discovering West Virginia
Updated: Oct 8
"Travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind." – Seneca
Country Roads and Canyon Views: Through West Virginia
John Denver's lyrics, "Almost heaven, West Virginia, Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River," had always called to me. On previous trips, we had only brushed the northern edge of the state while returning from Washington, D.C., to Indiana. This time, we intentionally chose the country roads to see canyon views and discover West Virginia for ourselves, and we were richly rewarded.
Our journey from northern Indiana included plans to visit the Neil Armstrong Air & Space Museum in Armstrong's hometown of Wapakoneta, Ohio. As a lifelong space enthusiast, I try to stop at every museum celebrating mankind's reach into the final frontier. Unfortunately, the museum was closed that day, so we'll save that visit for a future eastern adventure.
It was, however, a beautiful day to travel. Ohio greeted us with sunshine, mild temperatures, and expansive skies. One thing I especially enjoy about Ohio is its "big sky" feel. Perhaps not as vast as Montana, but there are broad horizons, well-kept farms, and peaceful rural landscapes stretching in every direction.
Charleston and the Golden Dome
With our schedule suddenly open, we aimed for Charleston and West Virginia's State Capitol. I had read many descriptions praising the building's beauty and unique architecture. Unfortunately, our timing once again worked against us, and we arrived just as the workday was ending.
Even so, the capitol grounds made a strong impression. The manicured lawns, spotless property, and gleaming gold dome created a memorable first introduction to the state. We vowed to return another day for a proper visit.
Charleston itself surprised us. Elevated highways circle much of the city, creating the impression that the downtown area nestles into the surrounding hills like a welcoming sunken living room. It was easy to imagine spending an extra day exploring the city's museums, monuments, and riverfront.
That evening we settled into "Club Walmart" in Quincy, just south of Charleston, where Route 60 follows the Kanawha River eastward. A grocery run, a peaceful night, and our nightly game of "13" made for a pleasant stop. (For the record, I'm currently leading the series.)
Along Route 60
The next morning we headed east along Route 60 and quickly found ourselves winding through river valleys and forested hills. We passed through a series of small towns that reflected pride in their communities. Historical markers seemed to appear around every bend, reminding travelers that these valleys have witnessed generations of Appalachian history.
Near Montgomery we encountered our first coal operations, one active and one abandoned. The massive facilities hinted at a time when mining dominated the region's economy.
At Glen Ferris we caught our first view of Kanawha Falls and made a brief stop near Gauley River Bridge. Standing there sparked a light-hearted debate. Could the expression "Gaw-lee!" made famous by Jim Nabors' Gomer Pyle character have originated here? Probably not. We later learned Nabors was from Alabama, but it was fun speculation while enjoying the scenery.
Hawks Nest State Park
One of the highlights of the trip was Hawks Nest State Park.
The overlook beside the lodge provides breathtaking views of the river canyon below. Stone walls, paved walkways, and beautifully maintained grounds make it easy to appreciate the landscape without requiring strenuous hiking.
Although we weren't staying overnight, we enjoyed exploring the gift shop and grounds. This is definitely a place we would like to revisit for a longer stay.
While admiring the view, we noticed what appeared to be rail tracks glistening in the sun along the river below. As the train emerged, we realized those reflections were coming from a seemingly endless line of coal cars. The train stretched for miles and moved with surprising grace through the valley.
The New River Gorge Bridge
Our primary destination was New River Gorge National Park and the iconic New River Gorge Bridge near Fayetteville.
Photos cannot adequately prepare you for the scale of this structure. The massive steel arch spans the gorge like a work of art suspended in midair. From the various overlooks, visitors gain an appreciation for both the engineering achievement and the dramatic beauty of the canyon.
We descended several flights of stairs to reach multiple viewing platforms and enjoyed every perspective. The climb back up, however, taught me a lesson. I tackled the stairs a little too enthusiastically and soon found myself sitting quietly beside the trail while concerned visitors kindly offered assistance. A few minutes of rest solved the problem, but if you visit, pace yourself on the return climb.
Thankfully, our faithful WonderRL, affectionately known as the Pooka, waited in the parking lot with a light lunch and a comfortable place to recover.
New River Gorge Bridge
East on Interstate 64
Our route then turned east toward Virginia and the next day's destination, Natural Bridge.
To reach Interstate 64, we passed through Beckley and encountered signs warning of toll roads ahead. Since we rarely carry cash, we stopped at an ATM and withdrew $50, unsure what the tolls might cost.
The grand total?
One dollar and fifty cents.
I probably could have found that much change wedged between the seat cushions.
What followed was one of the most enjoyable interstate drives we've experienced in the eastern United States. Interstate 64 gracefully winds through hills, valleys, rivers, and increasingly rugged mountain scenery. The engineering required to carve such a highway through this terrain is impressive in its own right.
By day's end, West Virginia had far exceeded our expectations. Friendly people, scenic roads, fascinating history, and dramatic landscapes combined to create one of the most memorable portions of our journey.
We will most certainly return and hopefully we will find you there . . . Along the Pooka Trail.
🚍 Pooka Trail Notes
Overnight Stop: Walmart, Quincy, West Virginia
Highlights:
West Virginia State Capitol grounds
Route 60 along the Kanawha River
Kanawha Falls at Glen Ferris
Hawks Nest State Park overlook
New River Gorge Bridge and National Park
Scenic drive on Interstate 64
Favorite Moment: Watching a seemingly endless coal train snake its way through the river valley far below Hawks Nest State Park.
Pooka's Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5 Paw Prints Out of 5)
Traveler Tip: Take your time climbing back from the New River Gorge overlooks. The views are spectacular, but the stairs can sneak up on you.
Would We Return? Absolutely. West Virginia delivered much more than we expected and deserves a longer visit in the future.
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