Mohican State Park to Holmes County Ohio Amish Country
Updated: Oct 8
"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes." – Marcel Proust
Now, with a couple of months of part-time traveling under our belts, we returned to one of our favorite destinations: Mohican State Park near Loudonville, Ohio and Holmes County Ohio Amish Country.
Time that was once spent learning how to set up a new RV and understand its systems can now be devoted to the outdoors and the experiences that inspired us to RV in the first place. The switches, gauges, capacities, and fears of doing something wrong gradually give way to comfortable routines. The learning curve flattens, and the adventure begins.
We timed our trip east to coincide with a service appointment at Craig Smith RV in Galion, Ohio. A minor recall notice had arrived, and this Leisure Travel Vans-authorized dealer was able to work us into their schedule.
The salesman greeted us almost before we had stepped through the door. They had not yet seen a Wonder Rear Lounge model and were eager to add one to their inventory. He offered to buy ours on the spot. I told him he couldn't offer enough to keep his boss from firing him for paying too much.
After a restful night at "Camp Walmart" south of Mansfield, we returned the favor by stocking up on groceries before leisurely heading southeast toward Mohican State Park.
Just a few miles outside Loudonville on Route 97, we stopped at the Ohio Memorial Shrine, a beautifully landscaped tribute to Ohio's war dead, sponsored by the Ohio Association of Garden Clubs. The small stone chapel offers a quiet place to reflect on the service and sacrifice of Ohio's sons and daughters.
Across from the memorial grounds, we found Park Road, which leads into a scenic area on the opposite side of the river from Mohican State Park. Our first stop was along the Clear Fork of the Mohican River for a morning hike.
We parked near the bridge and headed west on a well-marked trail leading to unusual rock formations and small waterfalls hidden within the forest.
After a couple of hours on the trail, we drove east along Park Road past the old fire tower and continued to a parking area high above the Clear Fork valley. From here, adventurous hikers can descend a steep trail to the river below.
After our morning hike, however, we weren't interested in another climb. We were simply looking for a pleasant place to relax while waiting for our campsite to become available.
One of the best features of the Wonder RL is the variety of places to unwind. The front seats swivel and partially recline. The dining area provides a comfortable place to read or enjoy lunch. The rear lounge is ideal for stretching out with a book or taking a nap. Two powerful ceiling fans, combined with the shade of a nearby tree, kept the interior remarkably comfortable as we enjoyed a peaceful afternoon rest.
Our campsite, Site 140, was deeper into the campground than on our previous visit. We appreciated the mature trees, level parking pad, and concrete patio surrounded by well-maintained grass.
It took me longer than expected to figure out how to activate the water hookup. Eventually, I called upon a neighboring camper, who quickly demonstrated the functional but less-than-obvious switch that started the flow. Once again, camping reminded me that experienced neighbors are often one of the best campground amenities.
We love the trails, river, and natural beauty found throughout Mohican State Park. A recently completed swinging bridge expanded our hiking options, opening access to trails on the opposite side of the river, including one leading toward the canyon rim parking area we had visited earlier
The biggest surprise of our October stay came from a tree growing directly over our campsite. We found ourselves parked beneath Ohio's state tree, the Buckeye (Aesculus glabra). The buckeye fruit was dropping like incoming artillery. Green husks littered the campsite pavement, and several struck the RV roof with surprising force. Future autumn visits will include careful consideration of our campsite's tree canopy.
We spent several enjoyable days exploring Mohican State Park and the surrounding countryside. Southwest of Loudonville, we came across a unique resort property that frequently hosts weddings. With accommodations, event venues, and beautiful grounds, it is easy to see why it has become a popular destination for celebrations.
From Mohican, we followed Route 39 to Millersburg and entered Holmes County, widely known as the Heart of Amish Country.
In Millersburg, we passed the historic Holmes County Courthouse, built in 1886 and
crowned by its gleaming copper dome, before joining Ohio Scenic Byway Route 62.
The drive east along Route 62 may be one of the most enjoyable stretches of highway in Ohio. Beyond the smooth pavement lies a constantly changing panorama of farms, barns, gardens, livestock, and carefully maintained homesteads. It felt as though we were driving through the pages of a Better Homes and Gardens magazine. Nearly every side road offered another glimpse into Amish farm life.
Our Holmes County base was Berlin RV Park & Campground, located just west of Berlin. The well-maintained campground offers walking trails, picnic areas, a pavilion, playground, and attractive wooded surroundings.
Our original site, Number 2, proved challenging to level. Fortunately, the staff graciously moved us to Site 4, which improved the situation somewhat. We were located in one of the elevated sites overlooking the campground and suspect many RVers would encounter similar leveling challenges in this section.
The upside was the view. The hillside location provided beautiful scenery and easy access to nearby woods.
That evening's dinner featured chicken salad croissants accompanied by Amish Dutch cherry pie purchased earlier at Troyer's Wholesome Foods in Berlin.
From our Berlin base, pronounced BURR-linn rather than burr-LINN, we explored the village's many shopping opportunities.
There are several large retail stores, including Sheiyah Market, a multi-level shopping destination offering furniture, home goods, clothing, and gifts. Along the main street, visitors will also find dozens of individually owned shops and specialty businesses.
Sue managed to find several household treasures, including rugs and kitchen supplies. I spent part of the afternoon doing what many husbands seem to do best in shopping districts: people-watching from a comfortable bench along Route 62.
For lunch, we discovered one of those hidden gems travelers hope to stumble upon.
The Colorful Cookery, tucked between a pair of storefronts, serves excellent pizza and was well worth the stop. Berlin offers many dining options, but this small establishment quickly earned a place on our list of favorites.
One of the town's greatest draws remains its concentration of skilled craftsmen and furniture builders. On an earlier trip, we purchased our maple kitchen table here, appreciating both the craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Just outside town sits the Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center, home to a massive circular mural depicting the history of Amish and Mennonite communities.
We also made our customary trip north to Lehman's Hardware in Kidron.
Lehman's is the sort of store that seems to have everything, and then some. Appliances, tools, toys, cooking supplies, clothing, food products, and hard-to-find household items fill room after room. The store specializes in practical tools from both past and present, many designed for off-grid and self-sufficient living.
We purchased our Lotus Grill here several years ago, and Sue has found numerous useful kitchen items over the years.
If you're traveling near US-30 between Wooster and Massillon, Lehman's is well worth a stop.
From Berlin, we wandered south through the back roads of Amish Country, passing beautiful farms and numerous family-run businesses producing honey, maple syrup, furniture, and meat products.
Our route eventually led us to the village of Charm.
On previous visits, we enjoyed seeing the words "CHARM SCHOOL" displayed prominently on the old local school building. This trip, however, we couldn't locate it and wondered whether the old structure had been replaced.
Our primary destination in Charm was Keim Lumber, a destination as much as a lumberyard.
Most home improvement stores may display a fixture or two in the plumbing department. At Keim, every fixture seems to be showcased in a complete setting. The tool department contains an astonishing selection of hand tools and power tools from numerous manufacturers.
It is truly one of those places that must be seen to be fully appreciated.
There are many excellent dining options throughout Holmes County, but when we asked where the locals eat, we were consistently directed to Boyd & Wurthmann Restaurant on Berlin's main street.
We were fortunate enough to dine there on a previous visit and enjoyed outstanding home-style cooking. This time, however, the secret was clearly out. The line extended far beyond our patience level, forcing us to abandon dreams of Swiss steak and cherry pie. Perhaps next time.
As always, we found this corner of Ohio to be both fascinating and relaxing. The industrious nature of its people, the beauty of its farms, and the quiet rhythms of rural life make Holmes County a destination we never tire of visiting.
And so, with new memories, a few purchases, and perhaps one too many slices of pie, we continued . . . Along The Pooka Trail.
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🚍 Pooka Trail Notes
Campgrounds
Mohican State Park, Loudonville, Ohio (Site 140)
Berlin RV Park & Campground, Berlin, Ohio (Site 4)
Highlights
Ohio Memorial Shrine
Mohican hiking trails and swinging bridge
Scenic Ohio Byway Route 62
Holmes County Amish Country
Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center
Lehman's Hardware in Kidron
Keim Lumber in Charm
Favorite Food Stops
Troyer's Wholesome Foods (Dutch Cherry Pie)
The Colorful Cookery (Pizza)
Boyd & Wurthmann Restaurant (if you can beat the line!)
Travel Tip
If visiting Mohican State Park in autumn, pay attention to the trees above your campsite. Parking beneath a mature buckeye tree can produce surprising amounts of falling fruit and a few startling bangs on the RV roof.
Mileage Note
Route 62 through Holmes County is worth taking slowly. The scenery is every bit as rewarding as the destinations themselves.
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