Natchez Trace Parkway

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Natchez Trace Parkway

Parthenon at Nashville, TN

The nation's largest national park is the Natchez Trace Parkway, which meanders through the states of Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi. At 444 miles in length and 800 feet in width, it easily captures the "largest" title, but there is much more than just a road that unfolds along the Trace. Beyond the miles of a gracefully engineered roadway are treasures of scenic beauty and historical wonder.

Our springtime 2023 Natchez Trace journey began on the second day of travel from Northern Indiana. The first day of our trip included familiar interstate travel and negotiating the congestion of Nashville, however, once we turned onto the parkway itself, we were immediately captured by its unique nature in just the first mile.

For me, the parkway's design, including its many graceful bridge archways, was a trip highlight in itself. With a speed limit of 50 mph and gentle elevation changes over smooth asphalt, the trip was one of the most relaxing road trips I'd ever experienced. There are no telephone poles, no billboards, no semis, no homestead roads, and limited access. All of these led to a sense of gliding along this paved ribbon of history. I've always appreciated road design, but the Natchez Trace Parkway took it to an art form. The bridge designs blended

The grand bridge at the northern end of Natchez Trace Parkway near Nashville, TN

in with their surroundings, and the minimal traffic made for a notably peaceful passing. There is a remoteness about the road and we came to learn to keep an eye on the gas gauge and our dining needs, as the services of each are in limited supply. At times you may have to drive as much as 15-25 miles from the parkway to have your needs met. Simple planning and preparedness can solve the issue and we never found it a bother. The seclusion added to the exclusive nature of this experience.

The Natchez Trace Pkwy is a part of the National Parks Service.

We had hoped to start with a lunch at the trailhead's signature Loveless Cafe on the south side of Nashville, but the same was true for dozens of our closest dining friends. The line of diners spilled out the door and onto outside chairs and tables. We passed on by and took our first stop near the large bridge that spans the valley and sets the tone for the elegance of the road ahead.

You soon notice the low key signage of the parkway as an occasional small sign noting "Marker 1/2 mile ahead" uniformly communicates a point of interest. At each marker there's usually a detailed sign about the historic or geological importance of the site. A careful pre-trip study of the Trace's points of interest will enhance your trip.

This was our first RV trip without making any campground reservations. We wanted to experience the open road and the No Rez mode afforded us route flexibility but also kept us on our toes to be on the watch for the night's accommodations. I had a general idea of possible stops and figured being early spring on the calendar and traveling midweek for a good part of our journey, we wouldn't have trouble. Our first stop on the parkway, however, was a close call.

Dry camping at Meriwether Lewis Campground ACE near Hohenwald, TN

We found Meriwether Lewis Campground near Hohenwald, TN. This is an Army Corps of Engineers (ACE) site often found near dams and other major projects. We arrived at 4:30 PM and got the last spot available in the First Come-First Served campground. The nicely paved drive-thru spot we landed provided a quiet overnight. While there was no electricity or water, as is often the case at ACE campgrounds, our Leisure Wonder was well equipped with its lithium batteries. The unit's solar panels kept the batteries topped off during the day's travels and delivered a comfortable evening. We met a couple from Quebec who actually arrived after us but lucked out when a couple chose to leave late in the day. In the future, I would want to arrive at similar-type campgrounds around 3 p.m. or earlier to have a better chance of securing a site.

The next morning we took in the Meriwether Lewis memorial, which was erected near the log tavern where Meriwether died under questionable circumstances.

A section of the original Natchez Trace trail found at frequent points along the Parkway

There are several markers along the Parkway where you can observe parts of the original Natchez Trace, the multi-state path that was traveled by barge workers from Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Kentucky. They used the path for many years as they returned from their one-way barge trips down the Mississippi until the invention of steam travel allowed return trips by water. You can get a feel for the history of this place by walking down these sunken paths.

While not well marked, keep your eyes out for the stone wall memorial near Florence, Alabama. Friends had told us of this unique attraction, and it was interesting to observe. One man, wanting to honor the memory of his great-grandmother's forced move to a reservation in Oklahoma, spent 30 years building this wall, stone upon stone, in her honor. The structure measures a mile in length as it meanders through the property and features various types of rock, sitting areas, and pathways. It is near the parkway but not marked by parkway signs.

Childhood home of Helen Keller - Tuscumbia, AL

We left the Trace for food and fuel in Tuscumbia, Alabama. We hated to miss Jackson Falls, but with wearing an orthopedic boot due to a foot injury, the hike to the falls wasn't going to work anyway. At Tuscumbia, we enjoyed a tour of Helen Keller's childhood home and learning about her amazing story.

Pharr Mounds

Once back on the parkway, we visited Pharr Mounds and learned of Native American practices that included mounds. Be sure to visit the National Park Visitor Center for the film and museum.

Overnighting at The Campground at Barnes Crossing in Tupelo, MS

We exited the Trace at Tupelo for an overnight at the Campground at Barnes Crossing. This was a nice overnight spot with level full service sites carved into a hillside. The campground provided a picnic table and a couple of outdoor chairs at each site, so we didn't have to break out any of our equipment to enjoy a pleasant evening in northern Mississippi. We opted not to visit Elvis' home but headed back toward the Trace and discovered we had actually missed a detour on the parkway anyway.

Lunch at French Camp along the Natchez Trace

For a special lunch, we pulled over at French Camp and enjoyed a hearty lunch and a chance to stretch our legs and let Evie have a run. I can recommend the menu, which offered several home-cooked southern meal choices. Gen. Andrew Jackson had passed by this encampment during the War of 1812.

The Cypress Swamp is a worthwhile stop. You'll find placards explaining the science of the area, and if the sun's out, you'll likely spot a turtle or gator getting a tan.

Lake side camping at LeFluer Bluffs State Park

In search of a campsite that evening, I left the parkway at Jackson, MS, and found Lefleur Bluff State Park on the northeast side of town. This was a fine campground right on the water with level concrete pads—so level I had to take a photo of my leveling app. We would gladly stop here again if traveling through this area.

The U.S.S Cairo in dry dock at Vicksburg

We crossed over the north-south Natchez Trace Parkway and headed due west to Vicksburg and the historic military sites there. The visitor center at Vicksburg paved the way for our visit with a great introductory film. We then drove the one-lane road through the hilly battlefield terrain with the aid of a National Park Service app audio tour. There are many historic places and memorial statues throughout the well maintained park. Our tour ended at the museum housing the remains of the Civil War's ironclad, USS Cairo.

The Windsor Ruins

From Vicksburg, we wound our way along various state and county roads to reach the fascinating ruins at Windsor. Here, a once grand mansion was lost by fire, but the metal and brick remains served as evidence of a splendid mansion and plantation not far from the Mississippi River.

Emerald Mounds near Natchez

Not far south from Windsor we visited Emerald Mound, another Native American mound but on a grander scale. This mound is 770 feet long, 435 feet wide and 65 feet high at the top of the primary mound.

We rejoined the Natchez Trace Parkway and it gracefully delivered us to Natchez, the stately southern city with many brick buildings and numerous mansions from the glory days of cotton empires. At the height of its glory there were over 500 millionaires living in Natchez. At the visitor center, we hooked up with Reverend Tracy for a private tour of the area. He

enlightened us regarding the glory days of the Natchez plantation owners as well as the plight of the slaves who maintained the grounds. We enjoyed lunch "Under the Hill" by the boat docks, where a paddle wheeler was pausing from its river tours. Natchez is a city worth visiting, but they told us the tourist trade is fading as the younger generation is not caring to take in the historical significance of the area.

One of the highlights of the trip was our camp at River View RV Park, just over the river from Natchez in Louisiana. With views of the great bridge and the Natchez bluffs, we camped on the Mississippi levee and enjoyed one of the finest camping experiences we have had outside of our favorite state park sites. This quiet, well-maintained park was just a few steps from the Mississippi, and we could watch the barges that frequently passed. We liked the park so much we stayed an extra day at River View.

The train for all ages at Tannehill Ironworks SP - AL

Our return trip took us east through Mississippi into northern Alabama, where we stopped at Tannehill Iron Works State Park just west of Birmingham. Here, we had a full-service spot and enjoyed watching the kids on their spring break trip as they biked and played ball in the area. Tannehill has a historic village, a small train that winds through the hollow, and then a larger gathering area for various shows throughout the season. This particular weekend featured artisans who were forging specialty knives. This is a worthwhile state park stop.

NASA Space Flight Center - Huntsville, AL

We tried to visit the NASA Space Flight Center in Huntsville, but with the spring break crowds, we found the line just to buy tickets was a half hour long, and the crowds were growing. We decided to put it off until a future trip.

The Hermitage - Andrew Jackson's Nashville home

Our final destination was Andrew Jackson's Hermitage outside of Nashville. We enjoyed the exceptional museum and film and toured the stately grounds.

Our last overnight stop was at Charlestown State Park, just over the river in Indiana. This huge park had well-spaced camp sights, nice roads, and paved walkways. The area was once a munitions dump and has thousands of acres. We'll stop here again.

I would invite you to experience not only the pleasure of driving the Natchez Trace Parkway but also the rich history that is so well maintained in this part of the country. You may even find us once again relishing the pleasant experience of the Natchez Trace as we travel along the Pooka Trail.